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Ama Dablam is a mountain in the Himalaya range of eastern Nepal. The main peak is , the lower western peak is . Ama Dablam means "Mother's necklace"; the long ridges on each side like the arms of a mother (''ama'') protecting her child, and the hanging glacier thought of as the ''dablam'', the traditional double-pendant containing pictures of the gods, worn by Sherpa women.〔Kennedy 2005, p. 22〕 For several days, Ama Dablam dominates the eastern sky for anyone trekking to Mount Everest basecamp. Ama Dablam was first climbed on 13 March 1961 by Mike Gill (NZ), Barry Bishop (USA), Mike Ward (UK) and Wally Romanes (NZ) via the ''Southwest Ridge''. They were well-acclimatised to altitude, having wintered over at 5800 metres near the base of the peak as part of the Silver Hut Scientific Expedition of 1960-61, led by Sir Edmund Hillary.〔Kennedy 2005, p. 26〕 Ama Dablam is the third most popular Himalayan peak for permitted expeditions. The most popular route by far is the ''Southwest Ridge'' (right skyline in the photo).〔Kennedy 2005, p. 27〕 Climbers typically set up three camps along the ridge with camp 3 just below and to the right of the hanging glacier, the Dablam. Any ice that calves off the glacier typically goes left, away from the camp. However, a 2006 avalanche proved that this is not always the case. A climbing permit and a liaison officer are required when attempting Ama Dablam. As with Mt. Everest, the best climbing months are April–May (before the monsoon) and September–October. == Notable ascents == * 1961 ''Southwest Ridge'' (VI 5.9 60deg 1500m) FA by Mike Gill (NZ), Barry Bishop (US), Mike Ward (UK) and Wally Romanes (NZ).〔Kennedy 2005, page 26〕 * 1979 ''Southwest Ridge'' SA by Martin Boysen (UK); Tom Frost, David Breashears, Greg Lowe, Jeff Lowe, Peter Pilafian, Jonathan Wright (all US), and Lhakpa Dorje (Nepal) reached the summit on 22 April in blizzard conditions, as part of a well-financed climb-and-film expedition. Doug Robinson and John Wasson (both USA) reached the summit the next day.〔 * 1979 ''Lowe Route'' on the South Face (VI AI4 M5 1200m), FA Solo by Jeff Lowe, 30 April 1979.〔Kennedy 2005, page 28〕 * 1979 ''North Ridge'' (VI 5.7 70deg 1600m) by a large French expedition led by and placed 14 Frenchmen and 4 Nepalese Sherpa in three groups on the summit over three days, 21-23 Oct 1979.〔 * 1981 ''Northeast Spur to North Ridge'' (VI 5.7 70deg 1500m) by Tim McCartney-Snape, Lincoln Hall, and Andrew Henderson (AUS).〔 * 1983 ''East Ridge'' (VI 80deg 1500m) by (Belgium) and (Switzerland).〔Kennedy 2005, page 31〕 * 1984 ''Southwest Ridge'' solo by Naoe Sakashita (JP).〔 * 1985 ''Ariaki-Sakashita'' on the west face (VI 5.7 65deg 1400m) by Masayuki Ariaki and Naoe Sakashita (both JP).〔Kennedy 2005, page 33〕 * 1985 ''Northeast Face'' (VI mixed 90deg 1400m) winter ascent by Michael Kennedy and Carlos Buhler (both US).〔Kennedy 2005, pp. 34-36〕 * 1996 ''Stane Belak Šrauf Memorial Route'' on the northwest face (VI 5.7 AI5 A2+ 1650m) by and Tomaž Humar (both from Slovenia), which earned them the 1996 Piolet d'Or prize.〔Kennedy 2005, pp. 37-38〕 * 1996 ''North Ridge'' Austro-German alpine-style ascent by Friedl Huber, Max Berger, Louis Badengruber, and Roman Dirnbok.〔 * 2001 ''Northwest Ridge'' (VI Scottish 7, 2000m) by Jules Cartwright and Rich Cross (both UK).〔Kennedy 2005, page 39-41〕 * 2012 ''Southwest Ridge'' Jon Gupta (British) summitted Ama Dablam three times in one week. 抄文引用元・出典: フリー百科事典『 ウィキペディア（Wikipedia）』 ■ウィキペディアで「Ama Dablam」の詳細全文を読む スポンサード リンク
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